Gear ratios
    -----------
                     Manual          Automatic
                  
    1st gear          3.483            3.027
    2nd gear          2.015            1.619
    3rd gear          1.391            1.000
    4th gear          1.000            0.694
    5th gear          0.719            ----

    Rear end          4.100            3.909

Mechanical Standard Features
    ----------------------------
    - 2-rotor inline rotary engine with sequential twin turbochargers,
      air-to-air intercooler, and electronic fuel injection
    - Engine oil cooler
    - 5-speed manual transmission with overdrive
    - Power Plant Frame (PPF)
    - Torsen torque-sensing limited-slip differential
    - Fully independent double-wishbone suspension with rear shock-tower support
      brace
    - Rack-and-pinion steering with engine-rpm-sensing variable power assist
    - Power-assisted 4-wheel ventilated disc brakes with aluminum 4-piston front
      calipers and ducted backing plates
    - Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)

    Exterior Standard Features
    --------------------------
    - 16-inch aluminum alloy wheels
    - Dual aerodynamic body-color power mirrors
    - Tinted glass
    - Retractable halogen headlights
    - Lightweight aluminum hood
   
    Interior Standard Features
    --------------------------
    - Highback bucket seats with seatback recliners
    - Sport cloth upholstery
    - Dual storage compartments behind seats
    - Power windows and door locks
    - Remote liftgate and fuel door releases
    - 9000-rpm tachometer with 8000-rpm* redline
    - 180-mph speedometer
    - Gauges for oil pressure and engine coolant temperature
    - Leather-wrapped steering wheel, handbrake grip, and transmission shift
      knob
    - Cruise-control with steering-wheel-mounted controls (n/a R-1)
    - Driver's side air bag Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)
    - Drilled aluminum clutch and brake pedals (manual trans. only)
    - Anti-theft alarm system
    - Heater/defroster with 4-speed blower and side-window demisters
    - Air Conditioning
    - AM/FM/cassette stereo sound with five speakers and automatic power antenna

    * 7000 rpm redline with automatic transmission
 

I want to buy a 3rd Gen RX-7.  What should I know?
Recalls

    There have been three recall notices put out on the 3rd Generation RX-7s,
    two pertaining to engine fires, and one concerning brake booster failure.
    You will want to make sure that the car in question has had these recalls
    done.  If they have not been performed, you will want to take the car to a
    Mazda dealership where they will be performed free of charge.  If you don't
    know whether the recalls have been applied to a car, you can call the Mazda
    Customer Service line at (800) 222-5500 with the vehicle's VIN, and they
    can tell you.

Coolant recall

    The coolant recall involved the replacement of some cooling system parts
    with stronger/more heat resistant materials and lowering the pressure of
    the cooling system from 1.3 bar to .9 bar.  The parts replaced were the
    water pump seal, the water level sensor, the upper radiator hose, the
    filler cap, the filler cap body, the thermostat gasket, the water hose
    leading to the throttle body, and the water hose leading to the coolant
    separator tank.

Fuel line recall

    The fuel line recall involved replacing the fuel lines under the intake
    manifold with lines made from a more heat resistant material, and adding
    a fan control unit that runs the cooling fans if the coolant gets too
    hot, even if the car is turned off.

Brake recall

     The brake recall involves the replacement of a vacuum check valve and
     hose leading to the brake booster.  The original unit may stick when
     oily and cold, preventing power assist under braking.

Common questions
What is the "exhaust system overheat" light for?

    The "exhaust system overheat" light is connected to a temperature sensor
    inside the car, under the carpeting, by the passenger seat.  The
    location of this sensor is just above the main catalytic converter, and
    its purpose is to warn of excessive heat being generated by the converter.
    When the temperature of the passenger floor reaches about 220 degrees F,
    the ECU activates the relief air bypass and bleeds off air that would
    otherwise go to the catalytic converter.  This has the effect of cooling
    the catalytic converter.

When I start my car, the RPMs go to 3000.  Why?

    All 1993+ RX-7s have what is called an "Accelerated Warmup System" that
    revs the car up to ~3000 RPM when it is cold-started.  Its purpose is to
    heat up the 02 sensor and first catalytic converter to operating
    temperature as soon as possible.  If you don't like the thought of your
    motor revving that high when cold, you can start the car in 1st gear
    (with the clutch in), and the AWS will only take the RPMs to ~1500 or so.
    It is also possible to bypass the AWS solenoid (see the performance section
    of this FAQ).

What does the "mileage switch" do?

    The "mileage switch" is in effect for the first 20k miles on a new RX-7.
    It has the same effect as the "power steering switch".  It adds some RPM
    to the base idle to help keep the engine from dying.

What type of gas should I use?

    The RX-7 requires "super" or "premium" unleaded gasoline.  Use only
    gas with a 92 or higher octane rating.  Using leaded gas will coat
    both your catalytic converters and your oxygen sensor, rendering them
    useless.

What are some of the common problems with 3rd Gen RX-7s?
Common problems with easy fixes
Oil pressure gauge reads 0 psi

    Sometimes the connection between the oil pressure sending unit and the
    wire to the oil pressure gauge gets loose or dirty.  The way to fix this
    is to clean the metal tab on the sending unit with some 0000 steel wool,
    and then re-install the gauge wire using some electrolytic silicone gel
    (like some sets of spark plug wires come with) to seal out grime.

No boost above 4500 RPM

     This is usually caused by a vacuum line coming off of the "Charge Control
     Solenoid".  The lines sometimes pop off while under boost.  The solenoid
     in question is located under the upper intake plenum.  Look in your
     shop manual on page  F-10, the solenoid is item F.  If a vacuum line has
     come off here, trim off the end of the line where it has become loose,
     and re-attach it to the solenoid.  It is helpful to  use wire-ties or
     a dab of sealant to keep them from coming off again in the future.
     Motorcycle shops also sell small, wire clamps that work well.
    
Hood squeaks / rattles

     Squeaks:  Lightly lube up the tops of the rubber hood stops and the latch.
     Rattles:  Tighten the latch mechanism so it holds the hood to the rubber
     stops with light pressure.  Latch rattles can also be temporarily fixed
     by wrapping a small amount of tape around the latch where it mates with
     the striker plate.

Hand brake light comes on while driving

    The switch that controls the parking brake indicator light is located
    under the leather brake handle boot.  Sometimes during acceleration the
    hand brake lever moves enough to activate the light.  This problem can be
    fixed by building up the area of the handbrake that contacts the switch
    with a product like JB Weld.

"Low Coolant" alarm goes off

    The "Low Coolant" alarm goes off when the low coolant sensor is not wet.
    This sensor is located on the back side of the aluminum coolant fill
    housing.  Simply top off your coolant level to quiet the alarm (even though
    it may already look full).

Radio flashing "Err" code

    This means the factory radio's anti-theft feature has been triggered.  It
    can be reset by entering an unlocking code.  The unlocking procedure is
    at http://k-rad.com.  Your dealership can also unlock your radio, but
    they will usually charge a fee.

Other common problems
Hesitation at 3000 RPM when cold

    No known cure.

    I think it is caused by the double throttle control.  Its purpose is to
    prevent the engine from getting an overly lean fuel/air mix when you
    first start to accelerate.  Now the way this system works is that when
    the engine is cold, (coolant below 175 degrees or so) the ECU opens the
    double throttle control solenoid, which supplies vacuum to the double
    throttle control actuator.  This vacuum overcomes the spring tension
    that normally holds the double throttle butterfly open, and it closes.

    Now, think about what happens when you accelerate.... the engine pulls
    less vacuum, and starts to go towards positive manifold pressure as you
    build boost.  With the vacuum going away, the plate returns to its
    open (normal when engine warm) position.  This helps explain why the car
    doesn't hesitate when accelerating hard, and does when accelerating slowly.

    The decision by the ECU to operate the double throttle control system is
    affected by coolant temperature, and the current "map" that the ECU is
    using.  The Double Throttle control only happens during starting, cold
    engine warm-up, and COLD engine with LIGHT LOAD operation.  This map is
    also affected by the 20k mile switch, which is why many people say that
    the car never hesitated at 3000 RPM when it was new.  The 20k mile switch
    does the same thing that the EL switch does.... it adds base RPM to the
    motor... which affects the ECU's decision as to what "map" it is currently
    operating in.

    This is just my personal theory, and may be wrong.

Paint problems

    Some RX-7 owners have experienced problems with accelerated paint chipping
    and fading.  Mazda has set aside some money to deal with this problem on
    a case-by-case basis.  If your car has this problem, call the Mazda customer
    service line (800 222-5500) and ask to schedule a meeting with your local
    District Service Manager to have your paint inspected.

Battery death & leakage

    Many people on the RX-7 mailing list have had their batteries die
    prematurely.  The main cause seems to be excessive heat.  Batteries
    don't do well with heat, and it gets quite hot under the hood of an
    RX-7.  Hot batteries also tend to leak acid.  One solution to this
    problem is to buy a sealed battery.  Sealed batteries withstand heat
    and cold much better than normal batteries, and they do not leak.
    Sealed batteries cost a little more than regular batteries, but they also
    last longer and come with better warranties.

Brake rotor warp age

    Brake rotors warp from excessive heat.  Routinely braking hard from
    high speed, can cause warpage.  Rotors have been replaced under the
    new-car warranty.  The extended warranties generally don't cover rotors,
    since they are expected to be consumed with use.  Many netters have had
    their rotors replaced under warranty.

Suspension clunk

    Cars produced prior to May 31, 1992 came from the factory with noisy upper
    a-arm bushings.  Your dealership will replace the bushings under warranty
    with a modified part.

Cracking factory wheels

    Some people on the net have noticed cracks where their spokes join the rim.
    There seem to have been two manufacturers of stock rims, one type has a
    curved area where the spoke joins the rim, and the other joins at a 90
    degree angle.  All reported cases of cracking rims have been on the 90
    degree type rims.
Is my car normal?
Is my mileage unusually low?

    The official EPA mileage ratings for the 3rd generation RX-7s is:

       Manual transmission: 17 MPG City, 25 MPG Highway
    Automatic transmission: 18 MPG City, 24 MPG Highway

    Real world experiences from the net vary from this.  A highly modified car
    has gotten higher than EPA predicted mileage, but this is the exception.
    Most people on the net get lower mileage, with 12 MPG in mixed city and
    highway driving being a common number.

How much oil should my car consume?

    The RX-7's engine consumes oil by design.  It has oil metering pumps that
    actually inject oil into the combustion chambers to be burned as you drive.
    The amount you use will be determined by how aggressively you drive.

Sometimes my car backfires, is this bad?

    No.  Backfiring is caused by unburned fuel being ignited in your exhaust
    system.  Backfiring in itself, although annoying, is not harmful.
    Excessive backfiring can be an indication of another problem.

What is typical 3rd Gen performance?

    A typical, stock 3rd Gen should be able to turn about a 14.2 or better in
   the quarter mile, and a low 5 second, or better, 0 to 60 time.

What are normal boost patterns?

    According to the official Mazda test procedure, boost should be as follows:

    - Drive to third gear with normal acceleration
    - Accelerate from 35 MPH at WOT until passing 4500 RPM
    - A slight and smooth increase in power should be felt at approximately 4500
      RPM.  This will be about 65 MPH.

    Boost should be above 10 PSI up to 4500 RPM.  The boost will drop to about
    8 PSI just after 4500 RPM, and will begin rising towards maximum boost
    depending on the length of time the throttle is held wide open.

Performance / Competition
I want to race/modify my RX-7.  How do I start?

    Before racing or modifying your RX-7, you should start with a healthy
    car.  Change your oil and filter, change your fuel filter, bleed the
    brakes, change your air filter, make sure your tires are in good shape
    and properly inflated.  Use a little common sense and make sure your
    car is in good shape BEFORE you add the additional stress of racing or
    modification.  This will also simplify any troubleshooting you may have
    to do, as it eliminates some variables.  When modifying your RX-7, change
    one thing at a time if possible, this way you can more easily identify a
    part that is causing problems.  As always, this is not set in stone, for
    example, you should not do anything that will dramatically raise the
    boost pressure without also adding fuel.  Use common sense.