Original Information Production Information Understand your VIN Car Specifications Original Brochures Vacuum Diagrams Turbo Specifications Efini RX-7 (96-now) Stock Fuel System Catalytic Converter Concept Art and Design Technical Documents Products/Reviews Recommended Upgrades Fuel System Upgrades Power FC Instructions Single Turbo Upgrades Twin Turbo Upgrades Porting Info and links Nitrous usage Blitz FMIC Installation 20B Rotary Engine Info Warnings Apexi RX-6 vs. Stock Greddy Pulley Kit Basics Apex Seals Turbocharger Basics Basics of Rotary Engines Rotary Engine History Gasoline/Ignition Info Detonation Wideband O2/Datalogit ECU Pictures/Info Rotary Engine Vehicles FAQs Media Home Page RX-7 Lingo Rotary Engine Pics Blow Off Valve Media Rotary History Pics Rotor and Housing Pics Polishing Links Mechanic Locations My RX-7 Mods My RX-7 Photo Gallery Links 2nd Gen RX-7 FC 1986 RX-7 Brochure Rotary Engine PickUp My '74 REPU project Mazda's REPU Page Pictures and Diagrams Other RX Models RX-3 Brochure RX-2 Brochure RX-8 Renesis Info/Specs Upgrade Recommendations ( Red-Rx7 at RX7club.com) 1) Boost gauge. You would be surprised how much diagnostic information can be attained from an accurate unit as this. This will give you an idea of your engine health, performance, and your 'looks cool' factor. There are many different boost gauges, and I recommend going to a digital unit. Stay away from Autometer if possible. Those tend to be off +-1.5psi. I recommend GReddy/Defi/HKS/Apexi etc. Go with a name brand. You can choose the face color, position, etc. This is a reliability and in your case, a looks modification. 2) Water/Coolant Temperature. I would put this in the same time as the boost gauge. Again, this gives you all the benefits as above. The stock gauge only has three settings: A) COLD B) OK C) SCREWED. Your car wont run correctly in two of those settings. Its nice to have some sort of information, unless you have a money tree in the backyard and don't care. 3) Vacuum Hose. This is a frustrating task, but one well worth it. Those damn black snakes that cover your car can cause some lethal bites if one decides to be mean. Since you noted you are a 'body/looks' guy, this is a great chance to pick up some color silicone tubing to customize your engine bay. Use zip ties! Also buys some worm clamps, and dump the stock ones. Use zip ties to hold the silicone on the nipples. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 4) Air Intake. I recommend a custom one. You can fabricate two pipes leading off your inlets with a K&N Filter on it. This is the cheapest way to go, and provides flexibility. If you want to be more elaborate, you can fabricate some cold-air induction unit where the oil-cooler would normally reside on the 'R' models. This will open up your breathing for your engine. This would also be a good time to remove your airpump. Doing this will add power. 5) Downpipe. I recommend this as your second, if not first step. This is considered a 'safety' mod, but does add power. Depending on how many miles your car has, these precats tend to clog up, causing all sorts of problems; primarily heat exchange. Dump the stock downpipe, and pick up a downpipe from either HKS (199), Pettit, or someone. They all usually run in the same category. This will add power and reliability. 6) Catback. Removing stock exhaust is always a good thing when considering power additions. There are many routes to go on this one, but it all depends on what you are looking for. You noted you were a 'looks/body' guy. Are you a 'sound guy' too? One of the best flowing HP exhausts would be the Apexi GT. Your decision here. At most, you are looking at a minimal RWHP between the different setups. This will add power. 7) ECU. Some people may note that I am throwing this into the equation too soon, but I would do this early in the game. You have MANY options here. Since you commented that you are a 'body/looks' guy, rather than 'tuner/mechanic'; I would recommend you stay away from these: Haltech, Wolf, PowerFC, TecXX, Motec or anything that is somewhat of a stand alone system. With that out in the air, I recommend you do not get a Peter Ferrell PMS unit either. What I would recommend, is Pettit's unlimited ECU. Simple plug and play, and allows you to run boost up to your map sensors capability (17.5 PSI). Doing this modification will provide reliability and power. 8) AST Modification. Now would be a good time to remove the stock (plastic) Air Separator Tank. These things are prone to becoming brittle due to the heat & pressure. Last thing you want is to be racing and having this thing bust on you. Go with Pettit's AST. Great choice. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 9) Grounding Straps/Battery Relocation . You should do this now, since the next two steps will be most difficult if you don't. 10) Radiator. Some may say "go with the midpipe!!", while others may have said "You should have gone with a radiator 1st!", I believe responsibility is the key. By this point, you will have the technical information in front of you to be a safe (for the car) driver. Before jumping into the next few steps, it is a good point to continue with the reliability. Most everything else from these next few points will start adding horsepower, while knicking your reliability. Grab a good radiator, don't be cheesy. I would recommend Fluidyne. The mounting location depends on what decide to do on number 8. Use water wetter with your coolant as well. Doing this modification will provide reliability. 11) Intercooler. Well, here is a chance to define how you want your car to be. What do you do primarily with this car? Is it a weekend warrior/drag racing killer? Or is it an AutoX or Road Race car? The difference is which intercooler you go with. An upgraded Stock-mount or CWS intercooler is best used with a Road Racing/AutoX scenario. In these types of usage, you want the radiator to be up front collecting that cool air first. For street warrior/drag racing, grab a front mount intercooler. Which brand depends on what you are doing. If going with a stock-mount intercooler, I would recommend Peter Ferrell's unit. It works well. As for a FMIC, in your case, I would go with an Apexi unit. Don't be confused in buying the 'biggest of the biggest'; meaning, don't buy a GReddy 3 row, since your boost will be 16 and below. These intercoolers are for high-boost scenarios. 12) Piping Because your redoing your intercooler configuration, now is the chance to clean up some of those bottlenecks/weird bends. I would recommend going with a GReddy elbow (even one with a BOV flange), and an Efini Y-Pipe. Then, get some nice 3" or 2 - 2/3 piping fabricated to the sections. Buy some matching/contrasting silicone piping connectors. 13) BOV Since you have the flange for it now, it would be a good turbo saver on unwanted backlash pressure. 14) Turbo timer Ok... here is the deal on this one. Get one, but don't use it for a turbo safety application, rather an engine application. In all reality, if you drive your car hard you should drive some cool off laps. But, in the cases you cant, use the timer. Take notice: The stock turbos are oil cooled, and water cooled; therefore the turbo timer really doesn't help as many people think they do. 15) Spark Plugs. Again, I would recommend changing your plugs to some 'racing' plugs by this point. It never hurts (except maybe mpg economy.. But that's not what we are here for is it?) and offers safety. I would also recommend you go with some thicker plug wires while your at it. Stay with NGK plugs. Doing this would be a reliability and power gain (not much power, but it helps!). 16) Fuel! As you start to reach into the heavy power delivery, fuel upgrades are recommended. At the minimum, I would at least get a new fuel pump. Upgraded injectors/rails depends on you. If you do go with upgraded injectors/rails you will have to decide how you want to control them, in which this relates back to the ECU you choose. Remember, you can always buy a fuel controller separately, but I recommend against it. This will enable you to run more power reliable. 17) Fan Mod. I would do the FAN mod at this point to provide you with that extra tad bit of cooling. Basically, this modification forces your fans to run in high-speed mode all the time, vs. the other speeds. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 18) Thermostat Change This depends on your car. You may not need it in the region you are in. But, if you drive the car hard, its recommended. Go with a colder thermostat, or drill yours out. This will push the coolant through earlier in the game. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 19) Mid-Pipe Hang-on bay bee! That's what you will be thinking when you take your cat out of the car and put a straight through pipe on the car. If you do each piece individually, this will be the component that you will recognize the most power gains. Watch the boost creep! Doing this modification is a power gain, and -1 off on reliability. 20) Boost controller. With open exhaust and intake, your boost is going to start to creep and spike upwards. There is a lot of controller units out there on the market. Depending on what your goal is, decide on the product. I will let you do the research here. Basically, if you are looking for something to completely tune every 500 rpm increments of boost, delays, etc go with the Apexi AVC-R. If your looking for a good twist and turn go type, grab a GReddy ProfecB. 21) Pulley kit. Well, we are getting down to the little things that are needed. A Pulley kit will give you a little hp. But anything works. Do some research on this, and choose the appropriate kit. 22) Ignition Amp. I recommend you go with a unit that DOES NOT REQUIRE splicing into the coil harness. Some units do, and this is a no-no in my book. It seems that once you start cutting into the resistance of the wire, bad things COULD happen. Either way, my recommendation is the HKS Twin Power. Easy bolt on. This will give you more power. 23) Removing the AWS . Removing the Accelerated Warm-up system should be done next. I recommend you should cut the butterflies in the manifold out as well. Since you are disabling this, the butterflies sit in there in an 'open' state. Removing these, and capping the holes has actually shown RWHP gains. Coincident? Maybe. But, anything to remove turbulence going into the engine must help. Doing this mod may provide more power. 24) Short Shifter kit This would be a good time to start doing the driveline/other sections of the car. Go ahead and get a short shifter. Everyone needs one! 25) Clutch. Your going to need a clutch real soon with all these modifications. Remember though, we are only running at 12 PSI max right now. Why? So your damn car doesn't fall apart. Grab a good clutch. ACT/BONEZ is an excellent clutch that will last you a good period of time. I would recommend staying away from centerforce. Some people have had good things to say, but most I talk to don't. I didn't. Also, you don't need a clutch that is 'on/off' either, unless you want to look like a fool driving around town lurching everywhere. 26) Lower weight flywheel. Any reciprocating mass that you remove helps. This happens to bring your RPMS up a little quicker too. As you will start to notice, we are just about done with performance. Now we are getting into the little things that do make a difference. 27) Suspension kit . If you are making 397 RWHP with the stock suspension, throw a suspension kit on there. You will then make 397 afterwards, yet your car can be faster. Suspension tuning can counter the horsepower blues. Have fun playing! 28) Beefy rear end! . Throw a KAAZ 1.5 LSD in there. This will help on those 7k launches. Trust me, it is no fun braking the pumpkin in two. Its very costly I might add. 29) 4.33 gears Well, changing the gearing always improves some sort of time. Generally, people that have changed to these gears don't notice a 'speed' increase, but rather the 'correct' rpm in racing. Depends on your application. 30) Upgraded power plant frame . Mazdaspeed sells a nice one. Its red too. 31) Upgraded axles. No one likes a week link in the equation, and your axles will be it. Grab some nice chromoly ones. Hope you have some money left over. 32) Weight Reduction. Again, if you are at 397 RWHP, take some weight off and stop eating the McDonalds breakfast. This will make the car seem as though it has 410 RWHP. But in your case, it will just bring the car down to the weight before you added all the body kits. 33) oh yeah.. turn up the boost to 17 PSI add some gas, make a few 400 RWHP passes. 35) replace engine ..... ( Red-Rx7 at RX7club.com This site is meant to give information related to the 1993 (o)Mazda RX-7 Twin Turbo. Anything from rotary engines to wiring diagrams and turbo upgrades to tuning info, this site has it all! efini 93 rx7 13b anfini Turbo RX-7 Turbo RX7 turbo rx7 rx7tt rx-7tt As well as the Rotary Engine Pickup Truck aka REPU repu
Original Information Production Information Understand your VIN Car Specifications Original Brochures Vacuum Diagrams Turbo Specifications Efini RX-7 (96-now) Stock Fuel System Catalytic Converter Concept Art and Design Technical Documents Products/Reviews Recommended Upgrades Fuel System Upgrades Power FC Instructions Single Turbo Upgrades Twin Turbo Upgrades Porting Info and links Nitrous usage Blitz FMIC Installation 20B Rotary Engine Info Warnings Apexi RX-6 vs. Stock Greddy Pulley Kit Basics Apex Seals Turbocharger Basics Basics of Rotary Engines Rotary Engine History Gasoline/Ignition Info Detonation Wideband O2/Datalogit ECU Pictures/Info Rotary Engine Vehicles FAQs Media Home Page RX-7 Lingo Rotary Engine Pics Blow Off Valve Media Rotary History Pics Rotor and Housing Pics Polishing Links Mechanic Locations My RX-7 Mods My RX-7 Photo Gallery Links 2nd Gen RX-7 FC 1986 RX-7 Brochure Rotary Engine PickUp My '74 REPU project Mazda's REPU Page Pictures and Diagrams Other RX Models RX-3 Brochure RX-2 Brochure RX-8 Renesis Info/Specs
Original Information
Production Information Understand your VIN Car Specifications Original Brochures Vacuum Diagrams Turbo Specifications Efini RX-7 (96-now) Stock Fuel System Catalytic Converter Concept Art and Design Technical Documents
Production Information
Understand your VIN
Car Specifications
Original Brochures
Vacuum Diagrams
Turbo Specifications
Efini RX-7 (96-now)
Stock Fuel System
Catalytic Converter
Concept Art and Design
Technical Documents
Products/Reviews
Recommended Upgrades Fuel System Upgrades Power FC Instructions Single Turbo Upgrades Twin Turbo Upgrades Porting Info and links Nitrous usage Blitz FMIC Installation 20B Rotary Engine Info Warnings Apexi RX-6 vs. Stock Greddy Pulley Kit
Recommended Upgrades
Fuel System Upgrades
Power FC Instructions
Single Turbo Upgrades
Twin Turbo Upgrades
Porting Info and links
Nitrous usage
Blitz FMIC Installation
20B Rotary Engine Info
Warnings
Apexi RX-6 vs. Stock
Greddy Pulley Kit
Basics
Apex Seals Turbocharger Basics Basics of Rotary Engines Rotary Engine History Gasoline/Ignition Info Detonation Wideband O2/Datalogit ECU Pictures/Info Rotary Engine Vehicles FAQs
Apex Seals
Turbocharger Basics
Basics of Rotary Engines
Rotary Engine History
Gasoline/Ignition Info
Detonation
Wideband O2/Datalogit
ECU Pictures/Info
Rotary Engine Vehicles
FAQs
Media
Home Page RX-7 Lingo Rotary Engine Pics Blow Off Valve Media Rotary History Pics Rotor and Housing Pics Polishing Links Mechanic Locations My RX-7 Mods My RX-7 Photo Gallery Links
Home Page
RX-7 Lingo
Rotary Engine Pics
Blow Off Valve Media
Rotary History Pics
Rotor and Housing Pics
Polishing Links
Mechanic Locations
My RX-7 Mods
My RX-7 Photo Gallery
Links
2nd Gen RX-7 FC
1986 RX-7 Brochure
Rotary Engine PickUp
My '74 REPU project Mazda's REPU Page Pictures and Diagrams
My '74 REPU project
Mazda's REPU Page
Pictures and Diagrams
Other RX Models
RX-3 Brochure RX-2 Brochure RX-8 Renesis Info/Specs
RX-3 Brochure
RX-2 Brochure
RX-8 Renesis Info/Specs
Upgrade Recommendations ( Red-Rx7 at RX7club.com) 1) Boost gauge. You would be surprised how much diagnostic information can be attained from an accurate unit as this. This will give you an idea of your engine health, performance, and your 'looks cool' factor. There are many different boost gauges, and I recommend going to a digital unit. Stay away from Autometer if possible. Those tend to be off +-1.5psi. I recommend GReddy/Defi/HKS/Apexi etc. Go with a name brand. You can choose the face color, position, etc. This is a reliability and in your case, a looks modification. 2) Water/Coolant Temperature. I would put this in the same time as the boost gauge. Again, this gives you all the benefits as above. The stock gauge only has three settings: A) COLD B) OK C) SCREWED. Your car wont run correctly in two of those settings. Its nice to have some sort of information, unless you have a money tree in the backyard and don't care. 3) Vacuum Hose. This is a frustrating task, but one well worth it. Those damn black snakes that cover your car can cause some lethal bites if one decides to be mean. Since you noted you are a 'body/looks' guy, this is a great chance to pick up some color silicone tubing to customize your engine bay. Use zip ties! Also buys some worm clamps, and dump the stock ones. Use zip ties to hold the silicone on the nipples. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 4) Air Intake. I recommend a custom one. You can fabricate two pipes leading off your inlets with a K&N Filter on it. This is the cheapest way to go, and provides flexibility. If you want to be more elaborate, you can fabricate some cold-air induction unit where the oil-cooler would normally reside on the 'R' models. This will open up your breathing for your engine. This would also be a good time to remove your airpump. Doing this will add power. 5) Downpipe. I recommend this as your second, if not first step. This is considered a 'safety' mod, but does add power. Depending on how many miles your car has, these precats tend to clog up, causing all sorts of problems; primarily heat exchange. Dump the stock downpipe, and pick up a downpipe from either HKS (199), Pettit, or someone. They all usually run in the same category. This will add power and reliability. 6) Catback. Removing stock exhaust is always a good thing when considering power additions. There are many routes to go on this one, but it all depends on what you are looking for. You noted you were a 'looks/body' guy. Are you a 'sound guy' too? One of the best flowing HP exhausts would be the Apexi GT. Your decision here. At most, you are looking at a minimal RWHP between the different setups. This will add power. 7) ECU. Some people may note that I am throwing this into the equation too soon, but I would do this early in the game. You have MANY options here. Since you commented that you are a 'body/looks' guy, rather than 'tuner/mechanic'; I would recommend you stay away from these: Haltech, Wolf, PowerFC, TecXX, Motec or anything that is somewhat of a stand alone system. With that out in the air, I recommend you do not get a Peter Ferrell PMS unit either. What I would recommend, is Pettit's unlimited ECU. Simple plug and play, and allows you to run boost up to your map sensors capability (17.5 PSI). Doing this modification will provide reliability and power. 8) AST Modification. Now would be a good time to remove the stock (plastic) Air Separator Tank. These things are prone to becoming brittle due to the heat & pressure. Last thing you want is to be racing and having this thing bust on you. Go with Pettit's AST. Great choice. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 9) Grounding Straps/Battery Relocation . You should do this now, since the next two steps will be most difficult if you don't. 10) Radiator. Some may say "go with the midpipe!!", while others may have said "You should have gone with a radiator 1st!", I believe responsibility is the key. By this point, you will have the technical information in front of you to be a safe (for the car) driver. Before jumping into the next few steps, it is a good point to continue with the reliability. Most everything else from these next few points will start adding horsepower, while knicking your reliability. Grab a good radiator, don't be cheesy. I would recommend Fluidyne. The mounting location depends on what decide to do on number 8. Use water wetter with your coolant as well. Doing this modification will provide reliability. 11) Intercooler. Well, here is a chance to define how you want your car to be. What do you do primarily with this car? Is it a weekend warrior/drag racing killer? Or is it an AutoX or Road Race car? The difference is which intercooler you go with. An upgraded Stock-mount or CWS intercooler is best used with a Road Racing/AutoX scenario. In these types of usage, you want the radiator to be up front collecting that cool air first. For street warrior/drag racing, grab a front mount intercooler. Which brand depends on what you are doing. If going with a stock-mount intercooler, I would recommend Peter Ferrell's unit. It works well. As for a FMIC, in your case, I would go with an Apexi unit. Don't be confused in buying the 'biggest of the biggest'; meaning, don't buy a GReddy 3 row, since your boost will be 16 and below. These intercoolers are for high-boost scenarios. 12) Piping Because your redoing your intercooler configuration, now is the chance to clean up some of those bottlenecks/weird bends. I would recommend going with a GReddy elbow (even one with a BOV flange), and an Efini Y-Pipe. Then, get some nice 3" or 2 - 2/3 piping fabricated to the sections. Buy some matching/contrasting silicone piping connectors. 13) BOV Since you have the flange for it now, it would be a good turbo saver on unwanted backlash pressure. 14) Turbo timer Ok... here is the deal on this one. Get one, but don't use it for a turbo safety application, rather an engine application. In all reality, if you drive your car hard you should drive some cool off laps. But, in the cases you cant, use the timer. Take notice: The stock turbos are oil cooled, and water cooled; therefore the turbo timer really doesn't help as many people think they do. 15) Spark Plugs. Again, I would recommend changing your plugs to some 'racing' plugs by this point. It never hurts (except maybe mpg economy.. But that's not what we are here for is it?) and offers safety. I would also recommend you go with some thicker plug wires while your at it. Stay with NGK plugs. Doing this would be a reliability and power gain (not much power, but it helps!). 16) Fuel! As you start to reach into the heavy power delivery, fuel upgrades are recommended. At the minimum, I would at least get a new fuel pump. Upgraded injectors/rails depends on you. If you do go with upgraded injectors/rails you will have to decide how you want to control them, in which this relates back to the ECU you choose. Remember, you can always buy a fuel controller separately, but I recommend against it. This will enable you to run more power reliable. 17) Fan Mod. I would do the FAN mod at this point to provide you with that extra tad bit of cooling. Basically, this modification forces your fans to run in high-speed mode all the time, vs. the other speeds. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 18) Thermostat Change This depends on your car. You may not need it in the region you are in. But, if you drive the car hard, its recommended. Go with a colder thermostat, or drill yours out. This will push the coolant through earlier in the game. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 19) Mid-Pipe Hang-on bay bee! That's what you will be thinking when you take your cat out of the car and put a straight through pipe on the car. If you do each piece individually, this will be the component that you will recognize the most power gains. Watch the boost creep! Doing this modification is a power gain, and -1 off on reliability. 20) Boost controller. With open exhaust and intake, your boost is going to start to creep and spike upwards. There is a lot of controller units out there on the market. Depending on what your goal is, decide on the product. I will let you do the research here. Basically, if you are looking for something to completely tune every 500 rpm increments of boost, delays, etc go with the Apexi AVC-R. If your looking for a good twist and turn go type, grab a GReddy ProfecB. 21) Pulley kit. Well, we are getting down to the little things that are needed. A Pulley kit will give you a little hp. But anything works. Do some research on this, and choose the appropriate kit. 22) Ignition Amp. I recommend you go with a unit that DOES NOT REQUIRE splicing into the coil harness. Some units do, and this is a no-no in my book. It seems that once you start cutting into the resistance of the wire, bad things COULD happen. Either way, my recommendation is the HKS Twin Power. Easy bolt on. This will give you more power. 23) Removing the AWS . Removing the Accelerated Warm-up system should be done next. I recommend you should cut the butterflies in the manifold out as well. Since you are disabling this, the butterflies sit in there in an 'open' state. Removing these, and capping the holes has actually shown RWHP gains. Coincident? Maybe. But, anything to remove turbulence going into the engine must help. Doing this mod may provide more power. 24) Short Shifter kit This would be a good time to start doing the driveline/other sections of the car. Go ahead and get a short shifter. Everyone needs one! 25) Clutch. Your going to need a clutch real soon with all these modifications. Remember though, we are only running at 12 PSI max right now. Why? So your damn car doesn't fall apart. Grab a good clutch. ACT/BONEZ is an excellent clutch that will last you a good period of time. I would recommend staying away from centerforce. Some people have had good things to say, but most I talk to don't. I didn't. Also, you don't need a clutch that is 'on/off' either, unless you want to look like a fool driving around town lurching everywhere. 26) Lower weight flywheel. Any reciprocating mass that you remove helps. This happens to bring your RPMS up a little quicker too. As you will start to notice, we are just about done with performance. Now we are getting into the little things that do make a difference. 27) Suspension kit . If you are making 397 RWHP with the stock suspension, throw a suspension kit on there. You will then make 397 afterwards, yet your car can be faster. Suspension tuning can counter the horsepower blues. Have fun playing! 28) Beefy rear end! . Throw a KAAZ 1.5 LSD in there. This will help on those 7k launches. Trust me, it is no fun braking the pumpkin in two. Its very costly I might add. 29) 4.33 gears Well, changing the gearing always improves some sort of time. Generally, people that have changed to these gears don't notice a 'speed' increase, but rather the 'correct' rpm in racing. Depends on your application. 30) Upgraded power plant frame . Mazdaspeed sells a nice one. Its red too. 31) Upgraded axles. No one likes a week link in the equation, and your axles will be it. Grab some nice chromoly ones. Hope you have some money left over. 32) Weight Reduction. Again, if you are at 397 RWHP, take some weight off and stop eating the McDonalds breakfast. This will make the car seem as though it has 410 RWHP. But in your case, it will just bring the car down to the weight before you added all the body kits. 33) oh yeah.. turn up the boost to 17 PSI add some gas, make a few 400 RWHP passes. 35) replace engine ..... ( Red-Rx7 at RX7club.com This site is meant to give information related to the 1993 (o)Mazda RX-7 Twin Turbo. Anything from rotary engines to wiring diagrams and turbo upgrades to tuning info, this site has it all! efini 93 rx7 13b anfini Turbo RX-7 Turbo RX7 turbo rx7 rx7tt rx-7tt As well as the Rotary Engine Pickup Truck aka REPU repu
Upgrade Recommendations
( Red-Rx7 at RX7club.com) 1) Boost gauge. You would be surprised how much diagnostic information can be attained from an accurate unit as this. This will give you an idea of your engine health, performance, and your 'looks cool' factor. There are many different boost gauges, and I recommend going to a digital unit. Stay away from Autometer if possible. Those tend to be off +-1.5psi. I recommend GReddy/Defi/HKS/Apexi etc. Go with a name brand. You can choose the face color, position, etc. This is a reliability and in your case, a looks modification. 2) Water/Coolant Temperature. I would put this in the same time as the boost gauge. Again, this gives you all the benefits as above. The stock gauge only has three settings: A) COLD B) OK C) SCREWED. Your car wont run correctly in two of those settings. Its nice to have some sort of information, unless you have a money tree in the backyard and don't care. 3) Vacuum Hose. This is a frustrating task, but one well worth it. Those damn black snakes that cover your car can cause some lethal bites if one decides to be mean. Since you noted you are a 'body/looks' guy, this is a great chance to pick up some color silicone tubing to customize your engine bay. Use zip ties! Also buys some worm clamps, and dump the stock ones. Use zip ties to hold the silicone on the nipples. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 4) Air Intake. I recommend a custom one. You can fabricate two pipes leading off your inlets with a K&N Filter on it. This is the cheapest way to go, and provides flexibility. If you want to be more elaborate, you can fabricate some cold-air induction unit where the oil-cooler would normally reside on the 'R' models. This will open up your breathing for your engine. This would also be a good time to remove your airpump. Doing this will add power. 5) Downpipe. I recommend this as your second, if not first step. This is considered a 'safety' mod, but does add power. Depending on how many miles your car has, these precats tend to clog up, causing all sorts of problems; primarily heat exchange. Dump the stock downpipe, and pick up a downpipe from either HKS (199), Pettit, or someone. They all usually run in the same category. This will add power and reliability. 6) Catback. Removing stock exhaust is always a good thing when considering power additions. There are many routes to go on this one, but it all depends on what you are looking for. You noted you were a 'looks/body' guy. Are you a 'sound guy' too? One of the best flowing HP exhausts would be the Apexi GT. Your decision here. At most, you are looking at a minimal RWHP between the different setups. This will add power. 7) ECU. Some people may note that I am throwing this into the equation too soon, but I would do this early in the game. You have MANY options here. Since you commented that you are a 'body/looks' guy, rather than 'tuner/mechanic'; I would recommend you stay away from these: Haltech, Wolf, PowerFC, TecXX, Motec or anything that is somewhat of a stand alone system. With that out in the air, I recommend you do not get a Peter Ferrell PMS unit either. What I would recommend, is Pettit's unlimited ECU. Simple plug and play, and allows you to run boost up to your map sensors capability (17.5 PSI). Doing this modification will provide reliability and power. 8) AST Modification. Now would be a good time to remove the stock (plastic) Air Separator Tank. These things are prone to becoming brittle due to the heat & pressure. Last thing you want is to be racing and having this thing bust on you. Go with Pettit's AST. Great choice. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 9) Grounding Straps/Battery Relocation . You should do this now, since the next two steps will be most difficult if you don't. 10) Radiator. Some may say "go with the midpipe!!", while others may have said "You should have gone with a radiator 1st!", I believe responsibility is the key. By this point, you will have the technical information in front of you to be a safe (for the car) driver. Before jumping into the next few steps, it is a good point to continue with the reliability. Most everything else from these next few points will start adding horsepower, while knicking your reliability. Grab a good radiator, don't be cheesy. I would recommend Fluidyne. The mounting location depends on what decide to do on number 8. Use water wetter with your coolant as well. Doing this modification will provide reliability. 11) Intercooler. Well, here is a chance to define how you want your car to be. What do you do primarily with this car? Is it a weekend warrior/drag racing killer? Or is it an AutoX or Road Race car? The difference is which intercooler you go with. An upgraded Stock-mount or CWS intercooler is best used with a Road Racing/AutoX scenario. In these types of usage, you want the radiator to be up front collecting that cool air first. For street warrior/drag racing, grab a front mount intercooler. Which brand depends on what you are doing. If going with a stock-mount intercooler, I would recommend Peter Ferrell's unit. It works well. As for a FMIC, in your case, I would go with an Apexi unit. Don't be confused in buying the 'biggest of the biggest'; meaning, don't buy a GReddy 3 row, since your boost will be 16 and below. These intercoolers are for high-boost scenarios. 12) Piping Because your redoing your intercooler configuration, now is the chance to clean up some of those bottlenecks/weird bends. I would recommend going with a GReddy elbow (even one with a BOV flange), and an Efini Y-Pipe. Then, get some nice 3" or 2 - 2/3 piping fabricated to the sections. Buy some matching/contrasting silicone piping connectors. 13) BOV Since you have the flange for it now, it would be a good turbo saver on unwanted backlash pressure. 14) Turbo timer Ok... here is the deal on this one. Get one, but don't use it for a turbo safety application, rather an engine application. In all reality, if you drive your car hard you should drive some cool off laps. But, in the cases you cant, use the timer. Take notice: The stock turbos are oil cooled, and water cooled; therefore the turbo timer really doesn't help as many people think they do. 15) Spark Plugs. Again, I would recommend changing your plugs to some 'racing' plugs by this point. It never hurts (except maybe mpg economy.. But that's not what we are here for is it?) and offers safety. I would also recommend you go with some thicker plug wires while your at it. Stay with NGK plugs. Doing this would be a reliability and power gain (not much power, but it helps!). 16) Fuel! As you start to reach into the heavy power delivery, fuel upgrades are recommended. At the minimum, I would at least get a new fuel pump. Upgraded injectors/rails depends on you. If you do go with upgraded injectors/rails you will have to decide how you want to control them, in which this relates back to the ECU you choose. Remember, you can always buy a fuel controller separately, but I recommend against it. This will enable you to run more power reliable. 17) Fan Mod. I would do the FAN mod at this point to provide you with that extra tad bit of cooling. Basically, this modification forces your fans to run in high-speed mode all the time, vs. the other speeds. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 18) Thermostat Change This depends on your car. You may not need it in the region you are in. But, if you drive the car hard, its recommended. Go with a colder thermostat, or drill yours out. This will push the coolant through earlier in the game. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 19) Mid-Pipe Hang-on bay bee! That's what you will be thinking when you take your cat out of the car and put a straight through pipe on the car. If you do each piece individually, this will be the component that you will recognize the most power gains. Watch the boost creep! Doing this modification is a power gain, and -1 off on reliability. 20) Boost controller. With open exhaust and intake, your boost is going to start to creep and spike upwards. There is a lot of controller units out there on the market. Depending on what your goal is, decide on the product. I will let you do the research here. Basically, if you are looking for something to completely tune every 500 rpm increments of boost, delays, etc go with the Apexi AVC-R. If your looking for a good twist and turn go type, grab a GReddy ProfecB. 21) Pulley kit. Well, we are getting down to the little things that are needed. A Pulley kit will give you a little hp. But anything works. Do some research on this, and choose the appropriate kit. 22) Ignition Amp. I recommend you go with a unit that DOES NOT REQUIRE splicing into the coil harness. Some units do, and this is a no-no in my book. It seems that once you start cutting into the resistance of the wire, bad things COULD happen. Either way, my recommendation is the HKS Twin Power. Easy bolt on. This will give you more power. 23) Removing the AWS . Removing the Accelerated Warm-up system should be done next. I recommend you should cut the butterflies in the manifold out as well. Since you are disabling this, the butterflies sit in there in an 'open' state. Removing these, and capping the holes has actually shown RWHP gains. Coincident? Maybe. But, anything to remove turbulence going into the engine must help. Doing this mod may provide more power. 24) Short Shifter kit This would be a good time to start doing the driveline/other sections of the car. Go ahead and get a short shifter. Everyone needs one! 25) Clutch. Your going to need a clutch real soon with all these modifications. Remember though, we are only running at 12 PSI max right now. Why? So your damn car doesn't fall apart. Grab a good clutch. ACT/BONEZ is an excellent clutch that will last you a good period of time. I would recommend staying away from centerforce. Some people have had good things to say, but most I talk to don't. I didn't. Also, you don't need a clutch that is 'on/off' either, unless you want to look like a fool driving around town lurching everywhere. 26) Lower weight flywheel. Any reciprocating mass that you remove helps. This happens to bring your RPMS up a little quicker too. As you will start to notice, we are just about done with performance. Now we are getting into the little things that do make a difference. 27) Suspension kit . If you are making 397 RWHP with the stock suspension, throw a suspension kit on there. You will then make 397 afterwards, yet your car can be faster. Suspension tuning can counter the horsepower blues. Have fun playing! 28) Beefy rear end! . Throw a KAAZ 1.5 LSD in there. This will help on those 7k launches. Trust me, it is no fun braking the pumpkin in two. Its very costly I might add. 29) 4.33 gears Well, changing the gearing always improves some sort of time. Generally, people that have changed to these gears don't notice a 'speed' increase, but rather the 'correct' rpm in racing. Depends on your application. 30) Upgraded power plant frame . Mazdaspeed sells a nice one. Its red too. 31) Upgraded axles. No one likes a week link in the equation, and your axles will be it. Grab some nice chromoly ones. Hope you have some money left over. 32) Weight Reduction. Again, if you are at 397 RWHP, take some weight off and stop eating the McDonalds breakfast. This will make the car seem as though it has 410 RWHP. But in your case, it will just bring the car down to the weight before you added all the body kits. 33) oh yeah.. turn up the boost to 17 PSI add some gas, make a few 400 RWHP passes. 35) replace engine ..... ( Red-Rx7 at RX7club.com This site is meant to give information related to the 1993 (o)Mazda RX-7 Twin Turbo. Anything from rotary engines to wiring diagrams and turbo upgrades to tuning info, this site has it all! efini 93 rx7 13b anfini Turbo RX-7 Turbo RX7 turbo rx7 rx7tt rx-7tt As well as the Rotary Engine Pickup Truck aka REPU repu
( Red-Rx7 at RX7club.com)
1) Boost gauge. You would be surprised how much diagnostic information can be attained from an accurate unit as this. This will give you an idea of your engine health, performance, and your 'looks cool' factor. There are many different boost gauges, and I recommend going to a digital unit. Stay away from Autometer if possible. Those tend to be off +-1.5psi. I recommend GReddy/Defi/HKS/Apexi etc. Go with a name brand. You can choose the face color, position, etc. This is a reliability and in your case, a looks modification. 2) Water/Coolant Temperature. I would put this in the same time as the boost gauge. Again, this gives you all the benefits as above. The stock gauge only has three settings: A) COLD B) OK C) SCREWED. Your car wont run correctly in two of those settings. Its nice to have some sort of information, unless you have a money tree in the backyard and don't care. 3) Vacuum Hose. This is a frustrating task, but one well worth it. Those damn black snakes that cover your car can cause some lethal bites if one decides to be mean. Since you noted you are a 'body/looks' guy, this is a great chance to pick up some color silicone tubing to customize your engine bay. Use zip ties! Also buys some worm clamps, and dump the stock ones. Use zip ties to hold the silicone on the nipples. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 4) Air Intake. I recommend a custom one. You can fabricate two pipes leading off your inlets with a K&N Filter on it. This is the cheapest way to go, and provides flexibility. If you want to be more elaborate, you can fabricate some cold-air induction unit where the oil-cooler would normally reside on the 'R' models. This will open up your breathing for your engine. This would also be a good time to remove your airpump. Doing this will add power. 5) Downpipe. I recommend this as your second, if not first step. This is considered a 'safety' mod, but does add power. Depending on how many miles your car has, these precats tend to clog up, causing all sorts of problems; primarily heat exchange. Dump the stock downpipe, and pick up a downpipe from either HKS (199), Pettit, or someone. They all usually run in the same category. This will add power and reliability. 6) Catback. Removing stock exhaust is always a good thing when considering power additions. There are many routes to go on this one, but it all depends on what you are looking for. You noted you were a 'looks/body' guy. Are you a 'sound guy' too? One of the best flowing HP exhausts would be the Apexi GT. Your decision here. At most, you are looking at a minimal RWHP between the different setups. This will add power. 7) ECU. Some people may note that I am throwing this into the equation too soon, but I would do this early in the game. You have MANY options here. Since you commented that you are a 'body/looks' guy, rather than 'tuner/mechanic'; I would recommend you stay away from these: Haltech, Wolf, PowerFC, TecXX, Motec or anything that is somewhat of a stand alone system. With that out in the air, I recommend you do not get a Peter Ferrell PMS unit either. What I would recommend, is Pettit's unlimited ECU. Simple plug and play, and allows you to run boost up to your map sensors capability (17.5 PSI). Doing this modification will provide reliability and power. 8) AST Modification. Now would be a good time to remove the stock (plastic) Air Separator Tank. These things are prone to becoming brittle due to the heat & pressure. Last thing you want is to be racing and having this thing bust on you. Go with Pettit's AST. Great choice. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 9) Grounding Straps/Battery Relocation . You should do this now, since the next two steps will be most difficult if you don't. 10) Radiator. Some may say "go with the midpipe!!", while others may have said "You should have gone with a radiator 1st!", I believe responsibility is the key. By this point, you will have the technical information in front of you to be a safe (for the car) driver. Before jumping into the next few steps, it is a good point to continue with the reliability. Most everything else from these next few points will start adding horsepower, while knicking your reliability. Grab a good radiator, don't be cheesy. I would recommend Fluidyne. The mounting location depends on what decide to do on number 8. Use water wetter with your coolant as well. Doing this modification will provide reliability. 11) Intercooler. Well, here is a chance to define how you want your car to be. What do you do primarily with this car? Is it a weekend warrior/drag racing killer? Or is it an AutoX or Road Race car? The difference is which intercooler you go with. An upgraded Stock-mount or CWS intercooler is best used with a Road Racing/AutoX scenario. In these types of usage, you want the radiator to be up front collecting that cool air first. For street warrior/drag racing, grab a front mount intercooler. Which brand depends on what you are doing. If going with a stock-mount intercooler, I would recommend Peter Ferrell's unit. It works well. As for a FMIC, in your case, I would go with an Apexi unit. Don't be confused in buying the 'biggest of the biggest'; meaning, don't buy a GReddy 3 row, since your boost will be 16 and below. These intercoolers are for high-boost scenarios. 12) Piping Because your redoing your intercooler configuration, now is the chance to clean up some of those bottlenecks/weird bends. I would recommend going with a GReddy elbow (even one with a BOV flange), and an Efini Y-Pipe. Then, get some nice 3" or 2 - 2/3 piping fabricated to the sections. Buy some matching/contrasting silicone piping connectors. 13) BOV Since you have the flange for it now, it would be a good turbo saver on unwanted backlash pressure. 14) Turbo timer Ok... here is the deal on this one. Get one, but don't use it for a turbo safety application, rather an engine application. In all reality, if you drive your car hard you should drive some cool off laps. But, in the cases you cant, use the timer. Take notice: The stock turbos are oil cooled, and water cooled; therefore the turbo timer really doesn't help as many people think they do. 15) Spark Plugs. Again, I would recommend changing your plugs to some 'racing' plugs by this point. It never hurts (except maybe mpg economy.. But that's not what we are here for is it?) and offers safety. I would also recommend you go with some thicker plug wires while your at it. Stay with NGK plugs. Doing this would be a reliability and power gain (not much power, but it helps!). 16) Fuel! As you start to reach into the heavy power delivery, fuel upgrades are recommended. At the minimum, I would at least get a new fuel pump. Upgraded injectors/rails depends on you. If you do go with upgraded injectors/rails you will have to decide how you want to control them, in which this relates back to the ECU you choose. Remember, you can always buy a fuel controller separately, but I recommend against it. This will enable you to run more power reliable. 17) Fan Mod. I would do the FAN mod at this point to provide you with that extra tad bit of cooling. Basically, this modification forces your fans to run in high-speed mode all the time, vs. the other speeds. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 18) Thermostat Change This depends on your car. You may not need it in the region you are in. But, if you drive the car hard, its recommended. Go with a colder thermostat, or drill yours out. This will push the coolant through earlier in the game. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 19) Mid-Pipe Hang-on bay bee! That's what you will be thinking when you take your cat out of the car and put a straight through pipe on the car. If you do each piece individually, this will be the component that you will recognize the most power gains. Watch the boost creep! Doing this modification is a power gain, and -1 off on reliability. 20) Boost controller. With open exhaust and intake, your boost is going to start to creep and spike upwards. There is a lot of controller units out there on the market. Depending on what your goal is, decide on the product. I will let you do the research here. Basically, if you are looking for something to completely tune every 500 rpm increments of boost, delays, etc go with the Apexi AVC-R. If your looking for a good twist and turn go type, grab a GReddy ProfecB. 21) Pulley kit. Well, we are getting down to the little things that are needed. A Pulley kit will give you a little hp. But anything works. Do some research on this, and choose the appropriate kit. 22) Ignition Amp. I recommend you go with a unit that DOES NOT REQUIRE splicing into the coil harness. Some units do, and this is a no-no in my book. It seems that once you start cutting into the resistance of the wire, bad things COULD happen. Either way, my recommendation is the HKS Twin Power. Easy bolt on. This will give you more power. 23) Removing the AWS . Removing the Accelerated Warm-up system should be done next. I recommend you should cut the butterflies in the manifold out as well. Since you are disabling this, the butterflies sit in there in an 'open' state. Removing these, and capping the holes has actually shown RWHP gains. Coincident? Maybe. But, anything to remove turbulence going into the engine must help. Doing this mod may provide more power. 24) Short Shifter kit This would be a good time to start doing the driveline/other sections of the car. Go ahead and get a short shifter. Everyone needs one! 25) Clutch. Your going to need a clutch real soon with all these modifications. Remember though, we are only running at 12 PSI max right now. Why? So your damn car doesn't fall apart. Grab a good clutch. ACT/BONEZ is an excellent clutch that will last you a good period of time. I would recommend staying away from centerforce. Some people have had good things to say, but most I talk to don't. I didn't. Also, you don't need a clutch that is 'on/off' either, unless you want to look like a fool driving around town lurching everywhere. 26) Lower weight flywheel. Any reciprocating mass that you remove helps. This happens to bring your RPMS up a little quicker too. As you will start to notice, we are just about done with performance. Now we are getting into the little things that do make a difference. 27) Suspension kit . If you are making 397 RWHP with the stock suspension, throw a suspension kit on there. You will then make 397 afterwards, yet your car can be faster. Suspension tuning can counter the horsepower blues. Have fun playing! 28) Beefy rear end! . Throw a KAAZ 1.5 LSD in there. This will help on those 7k launches. Trust me, it is no fun braking the pumpkin in two. Its very costly I might add. 29) 4.33 gears Well, changing the gearing always improves some sort of time. Generally, people that have changed to these gears don't notice a 'speed' increase, but rather the 'correct' rpm in racing. Depends on your application. 30) Upgraded power plant frame . Mazdaspeed sells a nice one. Its red too. 31) Upgraded axles. No one likes a week link in the equation, and your axles will be it. Grab some nice chromoly ones. Hope you have some money left over. 32) Weight Reduction. Again, if you are at 397 RWHP, take some weight off and stop eating the McDonalds breakfast. This will make the car seem as though it has 410 RWHP. But in your case, it will just bring the car down to the weight before you added all the body kits. 33) oh yeah.. turn up the boost to 17 PSI add some gas, make a few 400 RWHP passes. 35) replace engine ..... ( Red-Rx7 at RX7club.com This site is meant to give information related to the 1993 (o)Mazda RX-7 Twin Turbo. Anything from rotary engines to wiring diagrams and turbo upgrades to tuning info, this site has it all! efini 93 rx7 13b anfini Turbo RX-7 Turbo RX7 turbo rx7 rx7tt rx-7tt As well as the Rotary Engine Pickup Truck aka REPU repu
1) Boost gauge. You would be surprised how much diagnostic information can be attained from an accurate unit as this. This will give you an idea of your engine health, performance, and your 'looks cool' factor. There are many different boost gauges, and I recommend going to a digital unit. Stay away from Autometer if possible. Those tend to be off +-1.5psi. I recommend GReddy/Defi/HKS/Apexi etc. Go with a name brand. You can choose the face color, position, etc. This is a reliability and in your case, a looks modification. 2) Water/Coolant Temperature. I would put this in the same time as the boost gauge. Again, this gives you all the benefits as above. The stock gauge only has three settings: A) COLD B) OK C) SCREWED. Your car wont run correctly in two of those settings. Its nice to have some sort of information, unless you have a money tree in the backyard and don't care. 3) Vacuum Hose. This is a frustrating task, but one well worth it. Those damn black snakes that cover your car can cause some lethal bites if one decides to be mean. Since you noted you are a 'body/looks' guy, this is a great chance to pick up some color silicone tubing to customize your engine bay. Use zip ties! Also buys some worm clamps, and dump the stock ones. Use zip ties to hold the silicone on the nipples. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 4) Air Intake. I recommend a custom one. You can fabricate two pipes leading off your inlets with a K&N Filter on it. This is the cheapest way to go, and provides flexibility. If you want to be more elaborate, you can fabricate some cold-air induction unit where the oil-cooler would normally reside on the 'R' models. This will open up your breathing for your engine. This would also be a good time to remove your airpump. Doing this will add power. 5) Downpipe. I recommend this as your second, if not first step. This is considered a 'safety' mod, but does add power. Depending on how many miles your car has, these precats tend to clog up, causing all sorts of problems; primarily heat exchange. Dump the stock downpipe, and pick up a downpipe from either HKS (199), Pettit, or someone. They all usually run in the same category. This will add power and reliability. 6) Catback. Removing stock exhaust is always a good thing when considering power additions. There are many routes to go on this one, but it all depends on what you are looking for. You noted you were a 'looks/body' guy. Are you a 'sound guy' too? One of the best flowing HP exhausts would be the Apexi GT. Your decision here. At most, you are looking at a minimal RWHP between the different setups. This will add power. 7) ECU. Some people may note that I am throwing this into the equation too soon, but I would do this early in the game. You have MANY options here. Since you commented that you are a 'body/looks' guy, rather than 'tuner/mechanic'; I would recommend you stay away from these: Haltech, Wolf, PowerFC, TecXX, Motec or anything that is somewhat of a stand alone system. With that out in the air, I recommend you do not get a Peter Ferrell PMS unit either. What I would recommend, is Pettit's unlimited ECU. Simple plug and play, and allows you to run boost up to your map sensors capability (17.5 PSI). Doing this modification will provide reliability and power. 8) AST Modification. Now would be a good time to remove the stock (plastic) Air Separator Tank. These things are prone to becoming brittle due to the heat & pressure. Last thing you want is to be racing and having this thing bust on you. Go with Pettit's AST. Great choice. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 9) Grounding Straps/Battery Relocation . You should do this now, since the next two steps will be most difficult if you don't. 10) Radiator. Some may say "go with the midpipe!!", while others may have said "You should have gone with a radiator 1st!", I believe responsibility is the key. By this point, you will have the technical information in front of you to be a safe (for the car) driver. Before jumping into the next few steps, it is a good point to continue with the reliability. Most everything else from these next few points will start adding horsepower, while knicking your reliability. Grab a good radiator, don't be cheesy. I would recommend Fluidyne. The mounting location depends on what decide to do on number 8. Use water wetter with your coolant as well. Doing this modification will provide reliability. 11) Intercooler. Well, here is a chance to define how you want your car to be. What do you do primarily with this car? Is it a weekend warrior/drag racing killer? Or is it an AutoX or Road Race car? The difference is which intercooler you go with. An upgraded Stock-mount or CWS intercooler is best used with a Road Racing/AutoX scenario. In these types of usage, you want the radiator to be up front collecting that cool air first. For street warrior/drag racing, grab a front mount intercooler. Which brand depends on what you are doing. If going with a stock-mount intercooler, I would recommend Peter Ferrell's unit. It works well. As for a FMIC, in your case, I would go with an Apexi unit. Don't be confused in buying the 'biggest of the biggest'; meaning, don't buy a GReddy 3 row, since your boost will be 16 and below. These intercoolers are for high-boost scenarios. 12) Piping Because your redoing your intercooler configuration, now is the chance to clean up some of those bottlenecks/weird bends. I would recommend going with a GReddy elbow (even one with a BOV flange), and an Efini Y-Pipe. Then, get some nice 3" or 2 - 2/3 piping fabricated to the sections. Buy some matching/contrasting silicone piping connectors. 13) BOV Since you have the flange for it now, it would be a good turbo saver on unwanted backlash pressure. 14) Turbo timer Ok... here is the deal on this one. Get one, but don't use it for a turbo safety application, rather an engine application. In all reality, if you drive your car hard you should drive some cool off laps. But, in the cases you cant, use the timer. Take notice: The stock turbos are oil cooled, and water cooled; therefore the turbo timer really doesn't help as many people think they do. 15) Spark Plugs. Again, I would recommend changing your plugs to some 'racing' plugs by this point. It never hurts (except maybe mpg economy.. But that's not what we are here for is it?) and offers safety. I would also recommend you go with some thicker plug wires while your at it. Stay with NGK plugs. Doing this would be a reliability and power gain (not much power, but it helps!). 16) Fuel! As you start to reach into the heavy power delivery, fuel upgrades are recommended. At the minimum, I would at least get a new fuel pump. Upgraded injectors/rails depends on you. If you do go with upgraded injectors/rails you will have to decide how you want to control them, in which this relates back to the ECU you choose. Remember, you can always buy a fuel controller separately, but I recommend against it. This will enable you to run more power reliable. 17) Fan Mod. I would do the FAN mod at this point to provide you with that extra tad bit of cooling. Basically, this modification forces your fans to run in high-speed mode all the time, vs. the other speeds. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 18) Thermostat Change This depends on your car. You may not need it in the region you are in. But, if you drive the car hard, its recommended. Go with a colder thermostat, or drill yours out. This will push the coolant through earlier in the game. Doing this mod will provide reliability. 19) Mid-Pipe Hang-on bay bee! That's what you will be thinking when you take your cat out of the car and put a straight through pipe on the car. If you do each piece individually, this will be the component that you will recognize the most power gains. Watch the boost creep! Doing this modification is a power gain, and -1 off on reliability. 20) Boost controller. With open exhaust and intake, your boost is going to start to creep and spike upwards. There is a lot of controller units out there on the market. Depending on what your goal is, decide on the product. I will let you do the research here. Basically, if you are looking for something to completely tune every 500 rpm increments of boost, delays, etc go with the Apexi AVC-R. If your looking for a good twist and turn go type, grab a GReddy ProfecB. 21) Pulley kit. Well, we are getting down to the little things that are needed. A Pulley kit will give you a little hp. But anything works. Do some research on this, and choose the appropriate kit. 22) Ignition Amp. I recommend you go with a unit that DOES NOT REQUIRE splicing into the coil harness. Some units do, and this is a no-no in my book. It seems that once you start cutting into the resistance of the wire, bad things COULD happen. Either way, my recommendation is the HKS Twin Power. Easy bolt on. This will give you more power. 23) Removing the AWS . Removing the Accelerated Warm-up system should be done next. I recommend you should cut the butterflies in the manifold out as well. Since you are disabling this, the butterflies sit in there in an 'open' state. Removing these, and capping the holes has actually shown RWHP gains. Coincident? Maybe. But, anything to remove turbulence going into the engine must help. Doing this mod may provide more power. 24) Short Shifter kit This would be a good time to start doing the driveline/other sections of the car. Go ahead and get a short shifter. Everyone needs one! 25) Clutch. Your going to need a clutch real soon with all these modifications. Remember though, we are only running at 12 PSI max right now. Why? So your damn car doesn't fall apart. Grab a good clutch. ACT/BONEZ is an excellent clutch that will last you a good period of time. I would recommend staying away from centerforce. Some people have had good things to say, but most I talk to don't. I didn't. Also, you don't need a clutch that is 'on/off' either, unless you want to look like a fool driving around town lurching everywhere. 26) Lower weight flywheel. Any reciprocating mass that you remove helps. This happens to bring your RPMS up a little quicker too. As you will start to notice, we are just about done with performance. Now we are getting into the little things that do make a difference. 27) Suspension kit . If you are making 397 RWHP with the stock suspension, throw a suspension kit on there. You will then make 397 afterwards, yet your car can be faster. Suspension tuning can counter the horsepower blues. Have fun playing! 28) Beefy rear end! . Throw a KAAZ 1.5 LSD in there. This will help on those 7k launches. Trust me, it is no fun braking the pumpkin in two. Its very costly I might add. 29) 4.33 gears Well, changing the gearing always improves some sort of time. Generally, people that have changed to these gears don't notice a 'speed' increase, but rather the 'correct' rpm in racing. Depends on your application. 30) Upgraded power plant frame . Mazdaspeed sells a nice one. Its red too. 31) Upgraded axles. No one likes a week link in the equation, and your axles will be it. Grab some nice chromoly ones. Hope you have some money left over. 32) Weight Reduction. Again, if you are at 397 RWHP, take some weight off and stop eating the McDonalds breakfast. This will make the car seem as though it has 410 RWHP. But in your case, it will just bring the car down to the weight before you added all the body kits. 33) oh yeah.. turn up the boost to 17 PSI add some gas, make a few 400 RWHP passes. 35) replace engine .....
( Red-Rx7 at RX7club.com
This site is meant to give information related to the 1993 (o)Mazda RX-7 Twin Turbo. Anything from rotary engines to wiring diagrams and turbo upgrades to tuning info, this site has it all! efini 93 rx7 13b anfini Turbo RX-7 Turbo RX7 turbo rx7 rx7tt rx-7tt As well as the Rotary Engine Pickup Truck aka REPU repu